Compounding the problem of the sheer
scale
of discarded clothing that ends up in landfills is that much of it is made from
synthetic materials — which can take hundreds, if not thousands, of years to
fully decompose. Landfills simply can’t handle that timespan, not to mention the
immense amount of greenhouse gas (mainly
methane)
that decomposition releases — another major contributor to the global climate
crisis.
The outdoor apparel industry is front and center when it comes to this problem.
A vast majority of outdoor apparel brands — even sustainability-conscious names
including The North
Face
and
Arc’teryx
— rely on materials such as polyester and nylon to support high performance; but
many of those materials simply can’t be recycled or repurposed at scale and head
to the landfill at some point between initial sale and end of their useful life.
“The best-case scenario is to keep products out of landfills to begin with,”
37.5 Technology president Blair
Kanis told Sustainable
Brands™.
Kanis, appointed to her role in March after joining the thermoregulating fabric
company in March 2020, has a unique perspective on this major issue. She’s
leading a technology supplier that isn’t a household name in the apparel space, but
one with big potential to reduce the amount of time that some of these synthetic
materials spend in the landfill before significant degradation occurs.
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Without getting too deep into the science, 37.5 Technology is based around a porous, volcanic-rock-like additive that helps regulate body temperature — whether training in
cold weather or heading to a peak-summer wedding. Several brands, including
Men’s Wearhouse, Burberry and adidas have licensed the technology to
use in performance-type products from pants to outdoor gear.
The technology has also found use in the home goods space, particularly in bedding.
“It’s just such a great place to use our tech,” Kanis says. “You can support two
different styles of sleepers in the same bed.”
As a next major step (as of July), all new products featuring the textile now
incorporate the Enhanced Biodegradation
additive, which accelerates the
biodegradation of synthetic textiles in landfills. The additive is made from a
compound that enables a quicker degradation of
the specific material while allowing active landfills to capture any methane
emissions (since the product will now degrade in the landfill's lifecycle),
potentially reducing the overall warming impact of the degrading product.
A significant half-life reduction
Kanis says that initial testing of the additive in the company’s polyester
textiles shows a degradation half-life of 80 years — which is significantly less
than what’s currently
possible.
“It’s a pretty exciting advancement,” she explains. “If it’s breaking down that
fast, equipped landfills can turn that methane gas into renewable energy. You’ve
got more of that virtuous cycle — turning waste into an energy source.”
Perhaps more interestingly, the company is offering the additive — which it
sources from a third party — free of charge for any brand partner purchasing
37.5 technology.
The long-term idea is that not only does 37.5 Technology reduce the amount of
clothing going to the landfill, it makes quicker work of what’s there (with this
additive in it) and is helping to close a bit more of the loop on textile waste.
A broader journey towards climate neutrality
Kanis says 37.5 is working towards greater transparency and accountability on a
couple of fronts.
First, the company is planning to launch a blockchain technology by the end of
the year that will allow everyone who touches the textile along the supply chain
to input production and processing information. That data will be available to
brand partners to easily extract and transfer into their own systems (for
external reporting, for example).
Next, the brand aims to become climate neutral — which Kanis says will be
detailed in a roadmap in 37.5’s annual CSR report this fall.
As with many new technologies, broader industry adoption will be key to making
the impact of this additive noticeable; but offering it for free within an
existing customer space can only aid in proliferation.
“We don’t want a brand to have to choose between performance and
sustainability,” Kanis says.
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Geoff is a freelance journalist and copywriter focused on making the world a better place through compelling copy. He covers everything from apparel to travel while helping brands worldwide craft their messaging. In addition to Sustainable Brands, he's currently a contributor at Penta, AskMen.com, Field Mag and many others. You can check out more of his work at geoffnudelman.com.
Published Sep 13, 2022 8am EDT / 5am PDT / 1pm BST / 2pm CEST