BASF presents next-gen, bio-based skin, sun care solutions
Rambutan fruit and leaves | Image credit: GoPlaces/Pixabay
At this week’s in-cosmetics trade show in
Paris, BASF’s Care Creations™ focuses on trends including responsible
living or reliable sun care cosmetics, which are reflecting growing consumer
needs and driving the personal care industry.
“In today’s increasingly fragmented personal care market, consumers expect more
than excellent cosmetic products. They want brand producers to recognize their
individuality and to offer them tailor-made solutions. We support our customers
in detecting the consumers’ individual stories and to address them with suitable
offerings,” said Dirk Mampe, VP of Business Management Personal Care
Solutions Europe at BASF.
The rambutan program
Consumers are increasingly interested in the composition and development of
their cosmetic products, looking for personal care ingredients that are
ecologically sourced, conserve resources or help to avoid negative environmental
or social impact. With three new, 100 percent natural bioactive extracts from
the rambutan tree (Nephelium lappaceum), BASF can help manufacturers
respond to this growing trend, whilst having a positive impact on rural
communities in Vietnam, where rambutan is sourced. They are derived from
BASF’s Rambutan Program, a reliable supply chain for sustainable bioactives
production, upcycling different parts of the tree, other than the
fruit. Nephydrat™ is an extract of rambutan peel, which helps to moisturize
the skin and provides it with energy; Nephoria™, an extract of rambutan
leaves, helps mature skin to rejuvenate by increasing skin elasticity and
reducing wrinkles; and for hair care, BASF developed Rambuvital™ from
rambutan seeds, which increase hair follicle vitality and reduce sebum oxidation
triggered by exposure to pollutants and UV.
New plant extract for mattified skin
BASF’s Bix’Activ® is its new active ingredient for pure and mattified skin.
The extract from Bixa orellana seeds reduces sebum production by restraining
the proliferation of sebocytes in sebaceous glands (read: It helps control oily
skin) and helps to refine pores and to reduce skin blemishes. A
placebo-controlled clinical study demonstrated extraordinary results: The number
of active sebaceous glands decreased by more than 50 percent and the follicular
sebum excretion rate fell by more than 70 percent.
EcoSun Pass
As consumers are increasingly concerned about the impact of conventional
sunscreens on the
environment,
eco-friendly sunscreens are in high demand. BASF’s EcoSun Pass is a methodology
that enables a clear, transparent and comprehensive environmental impact
evaluation of UV filter systems. It is based on internationally recognized
criteria and comprises eight different parameters, from biodegradation and
aquatic toxicity to endocrine disruption potential.
BASF sharing its formulation expertise in the Formulation Lab®
in-cosmetics’ Formulation Lab® offers R&D laboratory staff the opportunity to
learn techniques firsthand from personal care ingredient specialists during
interactive training sessions in a fully equipped lab. This year, BASF experts
will guide participants in how to formulate a multi-functional skin-cleansing
product: a gel-cream that combines a suspension of stabilized shea butter
micro-droplets with biodegradable wax microbeads — a sustainable
alternative to the conventional plastic microbeads used in a multitude of
products, and now
banned
in parts of the world due to their impacts on waterways and marine life.
NOHBO, Genomatica team up on zero-waste personal care drops
Next up: the startups — NOHBO LLC today
announced a partnership with sustainable biotech giant Genomatica to create a new natural line of
single-use, water-soluble personal care drops made with Genomatica’s natural
Brontide™ butylene glycol.
Reminiscent in concept of the Ooho!, an edible and flexible water “blob” container from startup Skipping Rocks Lab, NOHBO Drops — first showcased in 2016 on “Shark
Tank”
— are single-use, water soluble drops containing shampoo, conditioner, body wash
or shaving cream — the company says formulations of each product are vegan,
color-safe, cruelty-free; and free of harsh chemicals, parabens, sulfates,
gluten and artificial fragrances. The moisturizing drops — now available in
a rosemary mint blend infused with sandalwood, and contain argan oil,
aloe and green tea extracts — are activated when mixed with water for 2-4
seconds, and leave behind a pleasantly clean, soft feel and zero plastic waste.
Genomatica’s Brontide is derived from a sustainable and renewable sugar
fermentation process and is a key material that enables the drops to remain
fully encased until it comes in contact with water. Brontide’s unique physical
properties aid in the prevention of the formula from dissolving or interacting
with NOHBO’s patent-pending, hygroscopic outer film layer, collectively giving
the personal care industry a new option for showcasing natural, biodegradable
beauty pods.
NOHBO’s product launch follows a successful pre-sale period, which generated
strong interest from the consumer market as well as inquiries from leading names
in the personal care, hospitality and sustainability industries. The company’s
new signature 15-pack of 5-milliliter shampoo drops will be shipping direct to
US customers in May 2019. NOHBO’s high-performing shampoo drops are the first of
several introductions planned for the company’s new line of personal care
products, which also includes conditioners, body washes and shaving creams.
Standard plastic packaging can take up to 1,000 years to degrade, but NOHBO’s
biodegradable, water-soluble film breaks down instantly when met with water.
This benefit, combined with NOHBO’s biodegradable, plant-based outer container,
enables customers to take a significant step toward zero waste. The packaging
also provides an effective moisture barrier, ensuring the integrity of each drop
throughout its entire lifecycle.
“Today’s consumers are not only concerned about where their personal care
products are going but what is going into them,” said NOHBO CEO Benjamin
Stern. “Thanks to Genomatica’s natural Brontide butylene glycol, we are now
able to answer these questions with responses that meet and beat customer
expectations.”
Brontide is ideal for personal care manufacturers looking to develop new natural
products or reformulate existing products with a more sustainable alternative to
petroleum-based materials. The ingredient integrates seamlessly into personal
care formulations — as a humectant, preservative booster, solubilizer or
stabilizer — and can be used in a wide range of applications.
Brontide is manufactured through an innovative process that uses renewable,
plant-derived glucose instead of petroleum-based feedstocks. Genomatica says its
unique fermentation process reduces global warming contribution by nearly 50
percent compared to petroleum-based butylene production.
“Brontide is providing the personal care industry with a more sustainable
solution for developing natural products where performance matters,” said
Damien Perriman, Genomatica’s SVP of Specialty Chemicals. “It’s inspiring to
work with innovators who are able to leverage the performance attributes of
Brontide to reimagine the way we use personal care products.”
OWA to launch ‘Out-of-this-World Amazing,’ waterless shampoo
Image credit: OWA
Meanwhile, OWA Haircare is another emerging innovator in the beauty space
that develops high-quality, water-saving hair products. Its Moondust Hair
Wash — what the company calls the planet’s most sustainable shampoo — is a
powder that becomes liquid when hydrated with water. Where conventional liquid
shampoo formulations are typically around 80 percent water, Moondust Hair Wash
contains zero water.
After dealing with the inconvenience of traveling with numerous bottles of
liquid haircare products, OWA founder Kailey Bradt sought out alternatives to
conventional hair products. When she researched what haircare was made up of,
she was surprised to learn that they were mostly solvents — for example, shampoo
is 80 percent water on average. Her solution is not only better for our suitcases, but for the environment.
“I want OWA to spark a new wave of innovation in the beauty industry that
considers not only what’s in the bottle, but everything from where it’s sourced
to how it’s delivered,” Bradt said.
In May 2018, OWA won seed funding from Rochester Institute of Technology
Venture Fund I, LLC to bring its innovative powder shampoo to market.
Dr. James Watters, SVP for Finance and Administration and Treasurer at RIT,
commented at the time, “We are absolutely delighted to partner with OWA Haircare
and its founder, and RIT alumna, Kailey Bradt. Kailey is the latest example of
the extremely talented and passionate individuals coming out of RIT ready to
make an impact. We look forward to supporting and celebrating Kailey’s many
successes for years to come.”
Bradt received her Bachelor’s in Chemical Engineering and a Master’s in Product
Development, both from Rochester Institute of Technology.
“To have RIT Venture Fund be our first investor really speaks to the
University’s efforts to support their alumni and how serious they are about
building an entrepreneurial career path for their students,” she said. “I hope
to inspire other female entrepreneurs and women in STEM to take risks and
embrace opportunity.”
OWA expects to bring its waterless shampoo to market later this year.
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Sustainable Brands Staff
Published Apr 2, 2019 11am EDT / 8am PDT / 4pm BST / 5pm CEST