Honey is up for debate like never before. And we can see why. Big money, corrupt
practises and mass production have tarnished the industry. That’s why it’s a
good time for ethical brands to shout about their credentials, because consumers
are ready to listen.
For some, honey will always be a cruel exploitation of bees. We don’t subscribe
to that, but then we do (full disclosure) work with honey
brands. Done
right, we think beekeeping is good for the environment and us — bees pollinate
flowers, vegetables and fruit. And the honey they produce is rich in
antioxidants, heals wounds and prevents infections.
But it’s not always done right. Large, commercial honey suppliers have become
greedy — there’s big money in trading the sweet stuff in bulk. That’s led to
‘honey laundering’ scandals which involve companies adulterating honey with
sugar syrups and mislabelling content and origins (watch “Lawyers, Guns and
Honey” — part of Netflix’s series,
“Rotten”
— for insight into honey’s shady side). Other unnatural processes involved in
mass production include feeding bees sugar substitutes to boost production and
intensive use of antibiotics to prevent disease in the hive.
Many of the cheaper honey brands you see in the supermarket are labelled as ‘a
blend of EU and non-EU honeys,’ often with no reference to what plants the
bees have foraged or how the honey has been processed. In fact, these are
usually a blend of mass-produced honey, often from China; mixed with smaller
quantities of stronger honeys for a consistent ‘sweet’ taste, uniform colour and
low price. Even premium mono-floral honeys (made from the nectar of one plant
species) are often a product of multiple origins and quality.
In an ideal world, mass honey producers would care more about preserving the
environment than profits. That means avoiding crop monocultures, which damage
biodiversity, as well as fertilisers and pesticides. Sustainable beekeeping
practises ensure sufficient food and resources are available for the wider bee
and insect populations. For more on this, take a look at Bees For
Development’s
practical steps for basic and natural beekeeping that supports bees through the
seasons.
At Windward, we’ve worked closely with smallholder farmers producing honey
sustainably in places including
Zimbabwe, Indonesia,
Zambia and Tanzania. We’ve seen how the income it generates is a
powerful motivator when it comes to protecting bees and their environment.
Indonesian forest honey generates an income that means local communities are
standing up to illegal logging and fighting against the encroachment of palm
oil
plantations. In Zambia, Ethiopia and Tanzania, among others, decades of
support given by local agri-businesses to smallholder beekeepers has changed the
economics and preserved the landscapes of remote forest areas.
We need to arm consumers with the right information so they can make the ethical
choice. That’s means telling them:
-
what country the honey is from
-
what flora the bees producing it have foraged on
-
how it’s heated — gentle heating, no higher than hive temperature, preserves
the honey’s natural enzymes and antioxidant properties.
-
how it’s filtered — light filtering preserves pollen and propolis content
(while removing bits of wax or larger pieces of honeycomb)
-
crystallised honey isn’t bad — it’s a natural process, resting the jar in
warm water will turn it back to liquid
-
to look for genuine organic certifications, such as from the Soil
Association
Most importantly — single-origin, naturally processed honeys taste better.
They’re richer, more interesting and change in colour and texture depending on
the season. Each jar is an adventure to the place it came from. Rich, dark,
organic Tanzanian forest honey (with a hint of currants); light, floral,
Bulgarian lavender honey; or amazing multi-floral honey from Solsbury
Hill, down the road from us in Bath.
The future for honey is bright — but only if we help consumers shape it by
buying products that are good for the environment and good for bees.
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Salina Toll is Operations Director at Windward Commodities — which develops profitable brands and sustainable supply chains for the benefit of smallholder commodity producers around the world.
Published Jul 5, 2019 8am EDT / 5am PDT / 1pm BST / 2pm CEST