Published 3 years ago.
About a 6 minute read.
The luxury group’s new biodiversity strategy provides a detailed roadmap aligned with the Science Based Targets Network’s Framework, with four stages: Avoid, Reduce, Restore and Regenerate, and Transform.
With the launch of its new Biodiversity Strategy, global luxury group Kering
commits to a net-positive impact on biodiversity by 2025, and becomes the latest
global group to declare its regenerative intentions.
The parent company to Houses including Gucci, Saint Laurent and
Alexander McQueen plans to regenerate one million hectares of farms and
rangelands within its own supply chain through a new €5 million nature fund; and
a further one million hectares outside its supply chain, totalling six times its
total land footprint.
Launched on 1 July 2020, Kering’s Biodiversity Strategy — "Bending the Curve on
— recognises the need, and well as the responsibility, to protect the farms and
forests from which it sources the raw materials used to make its products. The
group is using the insights derived from its Environmental Profit & Loss
which measures the environmental footprint in its own operations and across its
supply chain, calculating its monetary value and identifying where the impacts
Speaking at a Global Fashion Agenda X Kering Media Masterclass called
“Unearthing biodiversity in fashion” on 1 July, Marie-Claire Daveu,
Kering’s Chief Sustainability Officer, explained the journey leading to the
Biodiversity Strategy. “We have a pragmatic approach,” she said. “We did
analysis to understand where the impacts were, thanks to the Environmental
Profit and Loss Account. Then we developed programmes — for example in
cashmere, wool and gold. It was very operational; and each time we
worked with expert universities, NGOs and local communities. This year, we
decided to go a step further and to formalise our strategy with more KPIs and
more targets, and today launched our Biodiversity Strategy.”
Kering’s Biodiversity Strategy supports its wider Sustainability
and commitment made in 2017 to reduce its ecological footprint by 40 percent by
2025. It has also committed to reducing its controlled greenhouse gas emissions
by 50 percent by 2025, with both targets calculated against a 2015 baseline.
"Bending the Curve on Biodiversity
describes how Kering plans to achieve a net-positive impact on biodiversity by
2025, with a detailed roadmap aligned with a framework by the Science Based Targets
Network (which builds on the work of the Science Based Targets initiative), with four stages:
Avoid, Reduce, Restore and Regenerate, and Transform.
This stage ensures Kering avoids negative impacts in the first place, by not
taking from areas with the highest value to conservation, by:
Ensuring that all plant- and animal-based raw materials in Kering’s supply
chain come from legal, verifiable sources at a minimum; closely adhering to
guidance issued under CITES, the
IUCN Red List, and other relevant national
and international conventions.
Using the CanopyStyle
for sourcing viscose and other wood-pulp based
By 2025, eliminating the sourcing of all materials that lead to the
conversion of ecosystems with high conservation value — with attention to
forested areas, grasslands, wetlands and freshwater/marine ecosystems.
By 2025, achieving 100 percent traceability of all materials to at least the
country level, and to the farm level for key materials such as
Where impacts cannot be avoided, this stage is about reducing the duration,
intensity and extent of negative impacts, by:
Reducing biodiversity impacts associated with sourcing decisions, by
ensuring 100 percent alignment with the Kering Standards for Raw Materials
by 2025 — prioritizing, for example, organic
which has 80 percent less environmental impact than conventional cotton.
Reducing reliance on virgin raw material sourcing by achieving 50 percent
in the collections of Houses by 2025 (for example, recycled
supporting material and process innovations, and investing in startups
Achieving a target of 100 percent metal-free tanned leather in Houses’
collections by 2025.
This stage includes the commitment to regenerate land within Kering’s supply
Kering will use its new €5 million Kering for Nature Fund: One Million Hectares
for the Planet to support agriculture and rangeland projects throughout the
world. The projects will improve farming and livestock-rearing practices with
the aim of increasing farm biodiversity, reducing agro-chemical inputs,
improving soil water retention, enhancing carbon sequestration and focusing on
livelihood gains. Kering’s involvement in direct regenerative projects to date
include a goat rangeland programme in Mongolia connected to its cashmere
supply chain; and a partnership with the Savory
that cultivates regenerative sources of leather and wool.
In addition, Kering commits to
By 2025, restore habitats where mining and other extractive activities
occurred, restoring an area three times larger than its total ‘direct’
Introduce its Houses to new materials made from forgotten plant varietals
and livestock breeds, thereby improving agricultural resilience and moving
away from monocropping; and increase the offerings of such materials at its
Materials Innovation Lab by 2025.
Kering plans to go beyond its direct supply chain and use its influence to
transform the fashion industry as a whole.
The company aims to influence and collaborate with the fashion industry through
to work together on climate, biodiversity and ocean health; and join other
fashion industry leaders in reviewing the frequency of fashion show calendars
and requirements, due to their high environmental
Other commitments include activities to encourage employees to incorporate
biodiversity into their daily lives; strengthening the biodiversity element of
existing certification schemes and standards; and promoting natural capital
Kering is also integrating a new tool developed by the Cambridge Institute for
Sustainability Leadership called the Biodiversity Impact Measurement Tool,
to understand how its supply chains impact biodiversity. This could provide the
more granular level needed implement Kering’s Biodiversity Strategy
successfully. As the commitments cover a broad range of sourcing materials and
countries, some of the targets are high level — for example, achieving 100
percent traceability of all materials to at least the country level and farm
level for key materials such as leather. Tracing materials such as cotton to
farm level will further increase Kering’s farm to fashion sustainability
Published Jul 6, 2020 8am EDT / 5am PDT / 1pm BST / 2pm CEST