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UC Davis Event Highlights Olives’ Role in a Climate-Proof Food System

The low water and fertilizer needs of olive trees make them natural candidates for a drier climate. The conference highlighted technological advances to improve oil yield and quality, climate-smart growing practices, circular uses for byproducts, taste tests and more.

The benefits of olive oil for human health are well established and acknowledged; but the excellent environmental credentials of olives and olive oil are less well known, even as the health of the planet is a growing concern for grocery shoppers. According to a Kearney Consumer Institute Earth Day survey in 2023, over 40 percent of shoppers considered environmental impact when making food purchases.

An international conference at UC Davis recently explored the sustainability of olives. For three days, olive and olive oil researchers, producers and supporters met to exchange data and ideas. Attended by over 200 people, the conference was hosted by University of California Davis Olive Center and the Culinary Institute of America with support from a broad range of academia and industry. The scope was comprehensive, addressing olive sustainability from farm to fork and attracting presenters and attendees from more than 15 countries.

‘We are living our future’

A welcome address by Karen Ross, Secretary of the California Department of Food and Agriculture, highlighted both the challenges posed by climate change and the measures being taken in California to adapt and mitigate. Groundwater management is working to balance the aquifers, and California has a pledge to be carbon neutral by 2045.

"We are living our future," Ross said — a statement underscored by the 103ºF temperatures outside. But the message was ultimately one of optimism and hope, with reference to solutions and a next generation of talent and tools.

Professor Abderraouf Laajimi, PhD, deputy director of the International Olive Council (IOC), brought the focus to olives as an invaluable ally in the fight against climate change. The function of olive orchards as carbon sinks is impressive — producing 1 liter of olive oil captures 10.65 kg of CO2 from the atmosphere — but strategies are needed for adapting to climate change.

Diversity is strength

One of the key takeaways of the conference was the importance of biodiversity both above and below ground. Research/industry/governmental collaborations from the Mediterranean showed the extraordinary work being done to analyze and improve the biodiversity of olive groves — which comprise a 27-million-acre forest cultivated by humans. The importance of diverse olive varieties was the focus of presentations that emphasized the value of studying and preserving the genetic treasure trove of the estimated 1,500+ olive cultivars.

Extra virgin olive oils available for tasting throughout the event underscored the culinary value of diversity by showcasing the range of flavors possible with different olive varieties. The four First Place winners of the IOC's Mario Solinas Quality Awards — the ‘Oscars of olive oil’ — were presented in a guided tasting for the local attendees, while four certified organic California olive oils gave the international visitors a chance to taste some of the outstanding local production.

The flavor-diversity theme carried through to the cooking demonstrations at the Culinary Institute of America, with demos featuring extra virgin olive oil as the pivotal ingredient. Chef Paul Bartolotta of The Bartolotta Restaurants used extra virgin olive oil for frying, poaching, sauces and dessert. Chef Maria Loi, star of PBS TV’s “The Life of Loi: Mediterranean Secrets,” created a variety of Greek classics. Chef Jehangir Mehta (who Michelin named a "Most Sustainable Chef") then demonstrated a zero-waste approach by incorporating the trimmings from Loi's cooking, as well as some "cosmetically challenged" vegetables from the Copia garden, to create appealing dishes — all with olive oil.

Conserving resources and closing the loop

The low water and fertilizer needs of olive trees make them natural candidates for a drier climate. Scientists from California, Italy and Israel presented their research focused on understanding the requirements of the trees and maximizing the benefits of inputs. This emphasis on efficiency carried through into studies on olive oil processing, and technological advances to improve oil yield and quality.

Circular solutions were showcased in several talks about the use of olive by-products: from a small-scale gasification plant that uses olive pomace and orchard prunings to produce electricity and biochar (a valuable soil amendment) to the production of high-value phenolic extracts and bioplastics from olive by-products. Bioeconomy, an economic approach that centers on use of renewable biological resources to replace the fossil economy, presents great opportunities in the olive sector.

Everything is connected

Antonia Trichopoulou MD, PhD — pioneer proponent of the Mediterranean diet — gave an address drawing together the themes of health, nutrition, food traditions and the Planetary Health Diet. It is clear that our food choices have implications beyond our own health; making plant foods the center of our plates creates a lighter environmental footprint. And recognizing the role of olive oil in making these vegetables and legumes delicious as well as nutritious adds to its value in a plant-forward, more sustainable diet.

The food throughout the conference — plant-forward menus highlighting extra virgin olive oil and international flavors — vividly demonstrated that sustainable can be delicious; and the convivial atmosphere during meals, breaks and social gatherings encouraged the interaction of researchers and industry from around the olive-growing world. Learning, sharing experiences and insights can foster cooperation and collaboration to find solutions that protect our future.