The benefits of olive oil for human health are well established and
acknowledged; but the excellent environmental credentials of olives and olive
oil are less well known, even as the health of the planet is a growing concern
for grocery shoppers. According to a Kearney Consumer Institute Earth Day
survey in
2023,
over 40 percent of shoppers considered environmental impact when making food
purchases.
An international
conference at UC Davis
recently explored the sustainability of olives. For three days, olive and olive
oil researchers, producers and supporters met to exchange data and ideas.
Attended by over 200 people, the conference was hosted by University of
California Davis Olive Center and the Culinary Institute of America with support
from a broad range of academia and industry. The scope was comprehensive,
addressing olive sustainability from farm to fork and attracting presenters and
attendees from more than 15 countries.
‘We are living our future’
A welcome address by Karen
Ross, Secretary of the
California Department of Food and Agriculture, highlighted both the
challenges posed by climate change and the measures being taken in California to
adapt and mitigate. Groundwater management is working to balance the aquifers,
and California has a pledge to be carbon neutral by 2045.
"We are living our future," Ross said — a statement underscored by the 103ºF
temperatures outside. But the message was ultimately one of optimism and hope,
with reference to solutions and a next generation of talent and tools.
Professor Abderraouf Laajimi,
PhD, deputy director
of the International Olive Council
(IOC), brought the focus to olives as an invaluable ally in the fight
against climate change. The function of olive orchards as carbon sinks is
impressive — producing 1 liter of olive oil captures 10.65 kg of CO2 from the
atmosphere — but strategies are needed for adapting to climate
change.
Diversity is strength
One of the key takeaways of the conference was the importance of
biodiversity
both above and below ground. Research/industry/governmental collaborations from
the Mediterranean showed the extraordinary work being done to analyze and
improve the biodiversity of olive groves — which comprise a 27-million-acre
forest cultivated by humans. The importance of diverse olive varieties was the
focus of presentations that emphasized the value of studying and preserving the
genetic treasure trove of the estimated 1,500+ olive cultivars.
Extra virgin olive oils available for tasting throughout the event underscored
the culinary value of diversity by showcasing the range of flavors possible with
different olive varieties. The four First Place winners of the IOC's Mario
Solinas Quality
Awards
— the ‘Oscars of olive oil’ — were presented in a guided tasting for the local
attendees, while four certified organic California olive oils gave the
international visitors a chance to taste some of the outstanding local
production.
The flavor-diversity theme carried through to the cooking demonstrations at the
Culinary Institute of America, with demos featuring extra virgin olive oil
as the pivotal ingredient. Chef Paul
Bartolotta of The Bartolotta
Restaurants used extra virgin olive oil for
frying, poaching, sauces and dessert. Chef Maria
Loi, star of PBS TV’s “The Life of
Loi: Mediterranean
Secrets,” created a
variety of Greek classics. Chef Jehangir
Mehta (who Michelin named a
"Most Sustainable
Chef")
then demonstrated a zero-waste approach by incorporating the trimmings from Loi's
cooking, as well as some "cosmetically challenged" vegetables from the
Copia garden, to create appealing
dishes — all with olive oil.
Conserving resources and closing the loop
The low water and fertilizer needs of olive trees make them natural candidates
for a drier climate. Scientists from California, Italy and Israel
presented their research focused on understanding the requirements of the trees
and maximizing the benefits of inputs. This emphasis on efficiency carried
through into studies on olive oil processing, and technological advances to
improve oil yield and quality.
Circular solutions were showcased in several talks about the use of olive
by-products: from a small-scale gasification plant that uses olive pomace and
orchard prunings to produce electricity and biochar (a valuable soil amendment)
to the production of high-value phenolic extracts and bioplastics from olive
by-products.
Bioeconomy, an economic approach that centers on use of renewable biological
resources to replace the fossil economy, presents great opportunities in the
olive sector.
Everything is connected
Antonia Trichopoulou MD,
PhD — pioneer proponent of
the Mediterranean diet — gave an address drawing together the themes of health,
nutrition, food traditions and the Planetary Health
Diet.
It is clear that our food choices have implications beyond our own health;
making plant foods the center of our
plates
creates a lighter environmental footprint. And recognizing the role of olive oil
in making these vegetables and legumes delicious as well as nutritious adds to
its value in a plant-forward, more sustainable
diet.
The food throughout the conference — plant-forward menus highlighting extra
virgin olive oil and international flavors — vividly demonstrated that
sustainable can be delicious; and the convivial atmosphere during meals, breaks
and social gatherings encouraged the interaction of researchers and industry
from around the olive-growing world. Learning, sharing experiences and insights
can foster cooperation and collaboration to find solutions that protect our
future.
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Consultant and educator at CalAthena & Director at Extra Virgin Alliance
Published Dec 6, 2024 8am EST / 5am PST / 1pm GMT / 2pm CET