As you battle through the throng of keen shoppers at the mall this
Thanksgiving, you’d be forgiven for thinking Black Friday is the same
mega consumer event it ever was. But that’s not the case.
Building on the downshift in consumer enthusiasm that grew most noticeably in
2020
and continued into
2021,
half of US
consumers
say they will cut back on their holiday splurges this year in the face of rising
living costs. Instead, they say they will put their money towards day-to-day
expenses (38 percent); save their cash, due to economic uncertainty (34
percent); or use it to pay for home energy bills (10 percent). New research
suggests that even those planning to hit Black Friday sales will spend less than
they did last year — US consumers spent between $300 and $500 on average. But
this year, over a third of people surveyed expect to spend somewhere between
$101 and $300.
“It seems that even dedicated Black Friday spenders may be trying to save where
they can,” says Jeremy King, CEO of Attest, the firm behind the
research.
However, the latest data reflects an anti-consumerist trend that has continued
to gain traction in recent
years.
Companies including Patagonia and REI have long been using Black Friday
to make a statement about over-consumption, environmental degradation and
wastefulness — and how huge sales events are negatively fuelling many of the
planet’s woes. Patagonia’s now-legendary "Don't Buy This Jacket"
campaign
set the stage back in 2011; since then, REI began closing its doors every Black
Friday
in 2015 (and this year
announced
it would do that in perpetuity), encouraging customers and staff to spend the
day outdoors instead — a decision the large majority (60 percent) of the Attest
research respondents claim to support.
Circularity by Design: How to Influence Sustainable Consumer Behaviors
Join us Thursday, December 5, at 1pm ET for a free webinar on making circular behaviors the easy choice! Nudge & behavioral design expert Sille Krukow will explore the power of Consumer Behavior Design to drive circular decision-making and encourage behaviors including recycling and using take-back services. She will share key insights on consumer psychology, behavior design related to in-store and on-pack experiences, and how small changes in the environment can help make it easy for consumers to choose circularity.
This year, the variety of ways to shop more consciously is larger than ever:
#TakeBackFriday
Image credit: Teemill
This Black Friday, Teemill — a sustainable, UK-based print-on-demand supplier and the world’s largest dedicated circular economy platform — is working with its community of 10,000 stores to reverse Black Friday by asking customers to send back Teemill-made clothing they no longer wear to be made into new products, as part of its #TakeBackFriday campaign. And it’s paying them to do it.
Founded in 2014, Teemill works with more than 10,000 brands — including global
NGOs and businesses, media, online content creators, influencers and side
hustlers — providing an open-access circular design and supply chain platform.
It enables its users – including BBC Earth, Greenpeace, Lush,
Selfridges
and WWF — to create ecommerce stores connected to a circular supply chain so
they can create, sell or remake sustainable and circular clothing products.
All Teemill products are designed to be
remade. The company uses natural
materials and renewable energy to make clothing on demand; when items wear out,
customers scan a QR code on the label to send them back — in return, they get a
£5 credit on future purchases.
To date, Teemill says it has diverted 30,000kg of organic cotton from landfill —
avoiding 1 million kg of CO2e emissions and saving 586 million liters of water.
Its goal is to take 100m items back around the loop by 2027 — hence, this
additional effort to rally customer cooperation through #TakeBackFriday.
“Black Friday is a symptom of how waste has been woven into the way our world
works,” says Teemill co-founder Mart Drake-Knight, also co-founder of circular
apparel maker Rapanui. “Products have been
designed to be thrown away, meaning the only way to create growth is make and
sell more products and create more waste. It fuels climate change and destroys
nature. We built Teemill to solve that issue. Our products are designed from the
start to come back and be remade; and that means that instead of creating waste,
we create new products from it. Doing the right thing shouldn’t cost the earth —
we made the platform free, because we want to encourage everyone who cares about
these issues to have the chance to co-create a more sustainable future with us.”
To send back items, visit remillfibre.com.
Secondhand Sunday
For this holiday season, fashion reseller Poshmark is
aiming to continue the more conscious consumption thread with the introduction
of Secondhand Sunday (November 27)
— designed to get US consumers thinking about their buying habits during peak
holiday shopping season.
“The future of fashion is in your closet,” says Poshmark founder Manish
Chandra. According to Chandra, more than 90 percent of US adults are open to
receiving a secondhand or resale gift — but only a third (34 percent) are likely
to buy them for others. And that Attest study found another subtle change to
discount-hunting spending habits: Clothing has replaced technology products as
the most sought-after item — suggesting a massive opportunity to apparel
resellers such as Poshmark and
thredUP
close the gap. “Affordability, sustainability and supporting local communities
are the key drivers to gift secondhand.”
S.W.A.P.
Image credit: Freitag
Taking things even further is Freitag — a Swiss
company focused on a circular economy with its bags and accessories made from
used truck tarps, bicycle inner tubes, car seat belts and recycled PET.
“There are probably few things that have less in common with the circular
economy than Black Friday,” the company’s PR Lead, Elisabeth Isenegger,
tells Sustainable Brands®. Refusing to get involved in “wasteful
discount battles,” the firm felt that simply ignoring the “absurd discount
frenzy” was no longer enough: “We wanted to take a stance against Black Friday
with an initiative that questions this day of retail frenzy in a bold, but also
thoughtful and fun way.”
So, four years ago, Freitag decided to close its online store on Black Friday
and instead invite its community of customers to swap their already-owned
Freitag bags using a Tinder-style platform known as S.W.A.P. (Shopping
Without Any Payment).
This year is the first time the firm has invited people to do the swapping in
real life — in 15 of its stores, from Zurich to Tokyo. All you need to
do is bring your Freitag bag to a store and upon entry you get a number to place
on your bag with a corresponding nametag to put on yourself. Then, place your
bag on display next to the other tagged bags. “You just look through the other
exchangeable bags on display and chat with the owner of your favourite bag. If
you’re lucky, they will also love your bag and swap with you — allowing you to
go home with a new bag without spending any unnecessary money,” Isenegger says.
Developed by graphic designer brothers Markus and Daniel Freitag in
1993, Freitag’s signature messenger
bag has led to a range of unique bags
and accessories; and the brand has grown into a successful business built on
circular principles. So, how does it strike the right balance between
encouraging mindful consumption and selling more bags? The company tries to make
decisions in a way that these two things are not a contradiction, Isenegger
says: “Our upcycling approach extends the usefulness of a water-repellent and
incredibly durable material by giving it a new lease of life. Although they’ve
spent five to eight years on the road, tarps are so hard-wearing that they can
sometimes serve as bags for a multiple of that time. You can guess where we’re
heading: A material that’s kept in circulation as long as possible is
sustainable.”
By enabling organic growth as opposed to quantitative growth, Freitag can
increase the impact of its environmental and social initiatives, she adds. And
by making its anti-Black Friday statement an analog experience, the hope is it
will be more powerful and encourage broader conversations about current consumer
behaviors. After all, “saying ‘no’ to something is more fun when you aren’t
alone,” she says.
Economic efficiency is also what allows Freitag to work on projects such as the
swapping platform, which ultimately advocates for a circular economy. “It took
us over a year to develop it, and we are proud for consumers to be able to use
the platform any time of the year — not just Black Friday.”
Freitag has invited a number of like-minded brands — including folding-bike
company Brompton (which is offering a free bike hire
in the UK to encourage riding instead of spending) and MUD
Jeans (which is closing its online store and selling
vintage jeans via a livestream, instead) to join in.
Other brands joining the anti-Black Friday fun this year:
-
British responsible apparel brand RÆBURN
is disabling its online store.
-
Swedish apparel brand
ASKET, “whose
definition of progress is reduced wardrobes,” will shut down its website for
the sixth year running — instead encouraging followers to care, repair and
revive.
-
Recycled sneaker maker Flamingos Life
is closing its online store for the day.
-
The soapmakers at Soeder are calling on their
customers to refill without waste.
-
Wallet and card-protector maker Secrid is
offering customers a free repair service.
-
Balinese sustainable surf and yoga clothing brand
Oy is also closing its online store and calling
for donations, instead.
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Content creator extraordinaire.
Tom is founder of storytelling strategy firm Narrative Matters — which helps organizations develop content that truly engages audiences around issues of global social, environmental and economic importance. He also provides strategic editorial insight and support to help organisations – from large corporates, to NGOs – build content strategies that focus on editorial that is accessible, shareable, intelligent and conversation-driving.
Published Nov 15, 2022 1pm EST / 10am PST / 6pm GMT / 7pm CET